воскресенье, 12 февраля 2017 г.

Choosing the Right Type of Wall Finish

The regular way of finishing off masonry walls, and a technique still favoured by many plasterers, wet plastering involves employing either a cement-based render or a gypsum backing which is trowelled directly onto the bricks or blocks.Initially, a scratch coat is applied, identified as a ‘key’ coat. This forms the base coat that is lightly scratched whilst the plaster remains wet to create a good key for the following layer of plaster - the ‘skim’ coat - to adhere to.

In addition to cement-based and gypsum plasters, lime and clay plasters are preferred by lots of traditionalists and people wanting a wall that will breathe. Lime and clay plasters are higher in price than ‘conventional’ wall surface finishes and it's also a good idea to only use a plasterer with expertise of these materials.

Something to keep in mind though: if you are thinking about utilizing the method of wet plaster on an exterior wall, do take into consideration that you cannot add insulation as you're able to with plasterboard - except if you are happy to use external insulation on your home. So, if you have solid brick walls - rather than cavity walls - you should be thinking about the effect that a paucity of insulation will have.

Pros

 Gives an even, hardwearing finish
 Suits traditional properties perfectly
 Simple to apply around challenging areas for example windows and doors
 Offers excellent airtightness and soundproofing

Cons

 Can't add insulation inside behind this type of plaster
 Takes more time to dry out when compared with alternative methods
 Hairline cracking can happen
 High skill level is essential - a skilled plaster may be difficult to encounter and will often demand more for this particular sort of work.

Plasterboard with Skim Coat

There are two regular board thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5mm for 400mm spacings and 12.5mm for 600mm. There are also several different methods in which plasterboard could be fixed to a wall: ‘dot and dab’ or ‘board on dabs’, and plasterboard that's screwed to timber battens fixed to the wall.

With dot and dab, sheets of plasterboard are adhered to either brickwork or blockwork walls using dabs of adhesive and leaving merely a modest cavity between the plasterboard and the wall. With the batten method - perfect for those looking to add insulation to a solid wall - timber battens, commonly measuring 38mm wide along with a depth to support the thickness of insulation you are using between them, are screwed to the wall.

Rigid board PIR (polyisocyanurate) insulation is subsequently put between the battens just before the plasterboard is fixed over the top. A vapour control layer is also essential in the case of solid walls.

Last but not least, the joints between the boards are coated with scrim tape - usually in the style of a self-adhesive tape - before a skim layer of plaster is trowelled on to the plasterboard.

Pros

 Hairline cracks - which are often linked with wet plaster - are not likely
 Faster drying out time
 Possible to carry out on a DIY basis
 Insulation could be fitted behind plasterboard

Cons

 The cavity produced can eat into room space
 Can be challenging to fix shelving, radiators and pictures
 Provides little in the way of airtightness
 Scrim does not always disguise the space between the sheets of plasterboard and these might be evident through the skim coat.


Drylining

In place of using a skim finish applied to plasterboard, it can be quite possible to use the plasterboard itself as the final finish - the truth is, this is very common in the US and in a growing number of developer houses in the UK too.

In the case of taping and jointing, tapered-edge board is usually preferred. Joints are taped and subsequently filled over, as are any screw or nail holes. The entire surface will then be sanded prior to painting. It is quick, reasonably affordable and crack-free.

Pros

 Quicker and significantly less sloppy than the other techniques
 Works out a little cheaper as no plasterer is needed
 Can be executed on a DIY basis

Cons

 The final finish is rougher and a little uninteresting, even when painted
 Walls feel hollow when tapped and lack the solid-feel of plastered walls (specially when employed on stud walls)
 Plasterboard is easily damaged and hard to mend
 Inadequate soundproofing.


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